Southeast Stark Street, Hawthorne Street, Belmont Street, and Division Streets, from approximately 12th Avenue to about 60th Avenue in southeast Portland, is the range of neighborhood we're talking about today.
To the south is Division St, and to its north is Stark St, containing Hawthorne and Belmont Streets, and this quad of East/West running streets forms the locus of one of Portland's most eccentric and trend-reflecting areas of town--while still, overall, having a feeling of intimacy and inclusive community.
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| Belmont and 50th in the '20s |
East of the river began to be settled in the late 19th century with large, impressive farmhouses, and gradually filled in with simple, middle- to working class homes from the '10s through to the '50s, with the last bits of free space taken by mid '60s apartment buildings, all built on a grid street system.
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| Apartments on Belmont |
By the 1920s and '30s the main arteries of Hawthorne, Belmont and Division were established as the commercial areas, and they still haven't lost their importance in the daily life of these Portland neighborhoods, as they are still where people shop, meet, eat, and get their needs met.
New construction today tends to be either scraped-off, newly constructed condominiums, or modern design apartment buildings along Belmont and Division. As the city has not been requiring developers include on-site parking lots for all the people living in these structures, streets nearby them are or will certainly be filled in with cars to their very limits.
Close-in, Southeast Portland neighborhoods are generously landscaped: trees were important in the early days, and they shade nearly every street or yard, even when structures are newer. Some streets are lined with huge trees planted last century, especially those taken up with large Edwardian or Craftsman style homes, while others reflect 1920s developments with cute brick Tudors, while still other streets are an eclectic mixture representing a range of yard-design trends in the 20th century.
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| Typical '20s Tudor with few large trees |
The bone structure of the areas closest to the business areas is delicate, with narrow streets lined with parked cars. Drivers must be especially mindful of numerous bicyclists in every kind of weather and season. Many houses have their own driveways, yet finding parking can be a challenge here. On the other hand, this area is imminently walkable, with a near European feeling of pedestrian-friendliness.
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| Sunnyside bungalow in iconoclastic colors |
The urban farmer is well established in these neighborhoods: some backyards have chickens, or front yards given to sprawling permaculture, neat rock gardens, or planted-in retaining walls.
House colors reflect the inner character of their owners: you will find a bright lilac Victorian with prayer flags hanging off the porch and a buddha surrounded by plastic animals as an altar in the front yard, just as you will find a restrained, oyster hued, late 1940s Cape Cod with a stately burgundy door and nickel fittings planted in the center of a neat grass yard. Diversity of expression rules, here.
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| Stately Stark St Cape Cod |
Twenty or thirty years ago, Hawthorne street was inhabited by scruffy hipsters. The houses have now gone to working professionals, while the rentals may still be hipster inhabited. The boomtime of the '90s to about 2005 added multi-unit housing to Belmont street, upscale organic grocery retailers, and university-town style chains (Laughing Planet Cafe) or independent coffee/cupcake/ethnic gift/trendy clothing shops, along with national franchises (Ben & Jerry's ice cream, Starbuck's, Zoom Urgent Care) to Hawthorne, replacing some of the independent run businesses, but generally expanding the diversity of commercial amenities, while strengthening the position of independent run businesses. Alongside big box grocery and drug stores live the regular-joe or distinctive places of character like The Horse Brass Pub, Nick's Coney Island, The Waffle Window, and The Bread and Ink Cafe, as well as shops: Memento, Powell's Home and Garden bookstore, and Presents of Mind.
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| Hawthorne's Bagdad Theatre at dusk |
McMinamin's neon-lit Bagdad Theatre anchors mid-Hawthorne with its movies, restaurant, bar, and author's nights. The economic base of this area is diverse: from well-to-do Ladd's Addition and Laurelhurst Park surrounds, to the eco-interested families and working partnerships that define the blocks surrounding the Sunnyside Environmental school. Apartments are well dispersed within these neighborhoods, too.
Multnomah County's beloved and well-used Belmont library branch is located between Belmont and Hawthorne on Cesar Chavez Blvd.
Division is well known as a hub of independent restaurants and food carts. Another food pod lives on Belmont at 42nd Avenue, and another at Hawthorne and 20th Ave. Food cart eating is an essential part of the inner Southeast lifestyle, and has made Portland, Oregon America's preeminent independent food city of the moment: Portlanders eat well, here.
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| Local Stumptown Coffee on Belmont |
This is an area of Portland with a sense of initiative and humor: besides having many of the most unusual and notable restaurants, shops with clever and inventive inventory that showcases local artists and illustrators live here.
What makes this area so desirable is its proximity to a wide range of human expression: everyone is welcome in inner Southeast Portland. You might see a dreadlocked cellist or a bearded man in purple tights making balloon creatures, couples or families shopping, professor-y old friends meeting to talk, or skinny-jeaned hipsters bent over their computers, writing, in coffee shops. It's a wonderful neighborhood to live in.
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